88 Michiel de Ruyter in Iligh

Michiel de Ruyter has written in his diaries about his visits to Iligh and his meetings with the ‘Sant’. But until now there are no documents found written by people in Iligh about his visits. Of course Iligh was destroyed a few decennia later. The strange thing is that there isn’t a memory either among the family Aboudmiaa of a Dutch trader selling them modern weaponry. Maybe the sounds of the name were just too foreign: El Soussie who wrote about Iligh in the nineteen fifties did mention him and gave him an unrecognizably scrambled name. Bert Hogervorst hasn’t figured out yet how he came by his information: from the biography of De Ruyter or by documents he got from the Aboudmiaa family and reportedly never gave back? Thinking about De Ruyter in Iligh I can see that the set up might be different from what he was used too, but I’m sure De Ruyter also saw similarities between Iligh and the Dutch Republic. Iligh was small but was making a name for itself in international trade in particular across the Sahara. It had mighty enemies that were eager to destroy it. It was wealthy and it had a liberal attitude towards others. Jews in particular had found refuge there. Not Jews from the Iberian Peninsula as in the Republic but Jews from nearby Ifrane. And as in the Low Countries the Jews had brought prosperity because of their connections. It was ‘The Golden Age’ in the Republic but the same can be said about Morocco. In the seventeenth century there wasn’t such a big difference between the standard of living and the level of development in Europe and the Islamic world. That only came to be in the nineteenth century with the industrial revolution in Europe.

84 Weapons for Feathers

For eighty years the Dutch Republic was in a state of war with the Spanish Kingdom and made it a profitable business. The Republic started off on borrowed money trying to fight a war the traditional way with hired troops under the command of Princes. That didn’t work at all. Quickly enough the Republic came to rely on the Merchant Navy. With letters of consent in the pocket and guns below deck the captains of the merchant fleet became the scourge of the Spanish. Part of the loot went to the coffers of the Republic but a sizable part stayed with the ships owners, skippers and the crew. That part was often in kind: goods, riches and weapons. The Dutch became important weapons’ traders. The story goes that the most important client was actually the very people they had taken the guns from: the Spanish. When Michiel de Ruyter sailed his own ship the Salamander to Morocco, he brought at first ‘regular’ stuff for trade with him. In the MuZeeum in Vlissingen they told me with a knowing smile he brought ‘beads and mirrors for the natives’. It was a little bit different. Ali Aboudmiaa, the ‘Sant’ as De Ruyter calls him, had territorial ambitions. He wanted weapons of the most advanced variety. And that was what De Ruyter provided. In exchange he got Ostrich feathers. Was it a good deal: weapons against feathers? De Ruyter thought so. At home the rich and powerful liked to wear Ostrich feathers on hats and helmets. They were willing to pay handsomely for ‘fashion’. Ali Aboudmiaa probably laughed till his stomach hurt. The once very advanced guns are now decorating the sea wall in Vlissingen. Ancient or not they still have firing power. On special occasions the wick is lit and the cannons boom.

74 Paolo de Mas 1975-1982

From 1975 to 1978 Paolo de Mas was in Morocco for the REMPLOD project Willem Heinemeijer was doing for Dutch minister Jan Pronk: Reintegration of Emigrant Manpower and the Promotion of Local Opportunities for Development. For this project the University of Amsterdam, UvA worked together with the INSEA in Rabat: the Institut National de Statistique et d’Economie Appliquée. For this project De Mas visited Sidi Ahmed Ou Moussa for the first time in 1975. Later he would stay there for a while. Him and the other project members would stay in the building the Friends of Iligh would later have lunch. When the project was done, Paolo de Mas and others didn’t want to leave Morocco yet and went on the look out for another opportunity. They found it in the building in the lot next to that of the INSEA. It was the INAV Institut National Agronomique et Vétérinaire Hassan II in Rabat. In this institute Paul Pascon set the tone. From 1979 to 1982 the UvA and Paul Pascon worked together. First on the REDRA project in the Rif: (Ressources en Eau et Développement dans de zônes Arides). In 1979 however Paul Pascon published his inventory of the documents on the trade the House of Iligh conducted in the first half of the 19th century. After this publication he wanted to conduct an in depth study of not only the trade, but also the political and social history of the House of Iligh. In October 1980 he took Herman van der Wüsten and Paolo de Mas on a fact-finding trip to Iligh. After that Paul Pascon collected a large ‘equipe’ around him and VD Wüsten contributed Dutch funds for the Iligh project that would last till 1982.

Chapter 5 the gates of Iligh are opened

In Chapter 5 the gates are finally opened for writer Bert and artist Peti. On September 26 2017 they have an appointment with the father of Aisha, Moulay Imam Aboudmiaa. But from the beginning things don't really go according to plan. Although the two Dutchwomen are warmly welcomed into the bosom of the family, and have a whale of a time with Fatima and Imam, they get the 'tourist' treatment with regards to the secrets of Iligh. They return to Holland with more questions than answers. Is there written letters or texts in Arabic that tell about the visits made and deals struck with Michiel de Ruyter? Are there as many texts in Hebrew as suggested? Imam is supposed to know, but if he does, he did not communicate it with the visitors. But one thing is certain whatever the secret archives are hiding, it is in a deplorable state. Time, changing temperatures and creepy crawlies have caused havoc with the written texts and manuscripts. Will the heritage of this very special little stronghold with its rich, colorful and unique past crumble to dust and disappear into the earth and into oblivion or can the family get what they insist they want: expert help from abroad?

Chapter 3 The founder of the House of Iligh

Chapter 3 takes the reader through the first meeting of Bert Hogervorst with Aisha Aboudmiaa in Agadir. Aisha is the eldest daughter of the current 'Sant' of Iligh. She told Bert about her ancestor the Sufi saint Sidi Ahmed ou Moussa (1460-1563), her heritage and the stash of secret documents and books kept in the family's coffers. Once again back in Amsterdam Bert searches the internet for Sidi Ahmed Ou Moussa. She discovers that Sidi Ahmed was a real lout in his youth. With other urchins he terrorized the neighborhood. One fateful day he met an old man struggling under the weight of a bag of figs. He feels sorry for the old man and takes over his load. The act gave such satisfaction that he decided that helping people was much more fun than pestering people. After this epiphany he took his life and religious studies seriously. From then on wondrous stories abound about his piety, courage, patriotism, travels and magical powers. Some of his travels seem copies of those of Odysseus. He also worked miracles from a distance. That way he once changed the course of history. By magic he forced the Ottoman army on its way to invade Morocco to withdraw. The result was that Morocco stayed independent and never became a tax province of the Sultan in Istanbul. After his death his scant possessions were divided among his sons. They managed to transform the symbolic-religious capital into silver. Within three generations develops the House of Iligh into an economic and political power that challenges that of the Moroccan rulers. Now that Bert and Aisha have met will the gates of Iligh finally open? The sketch is of the keeper of the sanctuary and mausoleum of Sidi Ahmed Ou Mousa.

Chapter 2 Before the closed gates of Iligh

In Chapter 2 the text writer of the graphic story, Bert Hogervorst takes center stage. Three times when visiting Iligh she stood in front of closed gates. Coming upon Iligh by chance for the first time she was struck by its imposing, exotic architecture standing seemingly in the middle of nowhere. The casbah's of Iligh were like no other casbahs. It reminded her of pictures she had seen of sub-saharan buildings. Back in Holland she started an internet search. The first thing she discovered was that in the South of Morocco along the edges of the Sahara desert there were ancient Jewish settlements. Turns out the Jews played a crucial role in the Trans Saharan trade. The oldest settlement was in Ifrane (Atlas Saghir). From there the Jews had spread and brought prosperity to the region. It seemed that the rise of Iligh as a karavanserai, goods depot and trading post in the first half of the 17th century coincided with a particularly cruel episode in the history of the Jewish people of Ifrane known as the Mass Suicide when a ruthless ruler forced Jews into killing themselves and each other. From 1620 till 1968 when the last Rabbi left the place, the fate of the Jewish community and that of the family of the 'Maison d'Iligh' was tightly connected. At the end of the 19th century Iligh boasted the largest Jewish population of any place in the South of Morocco. The drawing is of Bert in the Jewish cemetery of Ifrane while on a reconnaissance of Jewish settlements in southern Morocco. Will the gates of Iligh finally open for her and what will she discover once inside?

Grant application

Bert wrote the following Project Proposal for the Grant application. The translation from the Dutch is mine... The Tears of Iligh: written by Bert Hogervorst, art by Peti Buchel While on a trip to the South of Morocco I stumbled by chance upon a remarkable stronghold in the style of sub-saharan architecture.When was this extraordinary collection of castles built? Who lived there? What is its history? That was how the idea for a book of Graphic Journalism was born. Three times in as many years did I knock on the door. On the fourth time it finally opened. What happened next? The first meeting with the family that has lived there for 350 years was so remarkable that it led to a train of unforeseen adventures. The family is heir to a very unusual history. Among other things two historical facts stood out immediately: its special connection to the Netherlands and the ties to the the large Jewish community that found shelter within its walls. There are supposed to be many written documents that prove the pivotal role the family played in the history of the region and the trans-Saharan trade, but the family is sworn to secrecy. According to trustworthy sources the whole family archive is in a deplorable state as damp and insects have made havoc with the papers and leathers on which the archive is written. Most of what is known about the history of Iligh comes from outsiders: for example the 17th century diaries of Dutch admiral of the fleet Michiel de Ruyter who traded with Iligh for 10 years. The key question of this book of Graphic Journalism is: can the authors penetrate the secret archives? Can they make the family trust them enough to let experts evaluate what's there and possibly safeguard them for future generations? Bert Hogervorst and Peti Buchel have collaborated before on 'The Turning Tide (1998) a study about alternative ways to regenerate 19th century harbour building in NW Europe. They share a love of and interest in the Arab speaking part of the Islamic world and its history and culture.

Paul Pascon and Iligh

Bert had contacted the person behind the Dutch name that was also on the cover of the study 'La Maison D'Iligh' by Paul Pascon. He sent the book to her by return mail. She read it in one sitting. She couldn't put it down. Although it was a historic and sociological study it read like a detective novel according to her. I read the prologue. In it Paul Pascon writes how he visits Iligh for the first time to find two elderly brothers with the ear glued to a radio listening to the BBC world service. Although Iligh itself seems at the end of the world in the middle of nowhere, the brothers are very aware of what happened in this world. Pascon is surprised by the importance Iligh used to have as a hub on the Trans Sahara route and the riches of its 350 year history. The brothers take to him and in the end let him into some of the old archives. He decides to study them. When he finished his study he knows he has just scratched on the surface. There will be much more to discover. But that never happens. Paul Pascon dies in Mauritania in an unfortunate car accident. After the first interest the publication of 'La Maison D'Iligh' generated Iligh slowly sank back again into nothingness. While in the next thirty years the area immediately around and south of Agadir developed into a popular holiday destination, Iligh hardly ever saw visitors. It literally sunk into the earth as I could see on Google Earth.

Bert's first visit to Iligh

At the end of 2014 Bert is in Amsterdam planning the itinerary for the next group she'll be taking to Morocco. She writes: 'I'm looking for interesting places to visit between Tafroute and Agadir. The name Tazerwalt pops up and on a photo on the internet I see for the first time the thrilling architecture of the stronghold of Iligh. There are also references of more Jews that move from Ifrane this time to Iligh. Surprise, surprise: in connection with Iligh the name of a seventeenth century Dutch admiral of the fleet Michiel De Ruyter is mentioned in a book about Morocco in Dutch I've just bought written by De Mas and Obdeijn. According to them Iligh is in that same century destroyed with the loss of everything. Obviously a new Iligh has arisen because when I visit Iligh in March 2015 the stronghold is there. Nobody home. It is Friday afternoon. Everything seems asleep. A village woman whom I speak to mentioned a name in connection with the stronghold: Aboudmiaa. Apparently he is not here but in Tiznit. In the Summer of 2015 I discover articles about the region Iligh is in: Tazerwalt or Tazeroualt. A second name pops up Paul Pascon a Moroccon researcher. He has written a book called 'Maison D'Iligh'. But I can't find the book anywhere. But 'Maison d'Iligh' does have a Facebook page. I contact the name attached: Aicha Aboudmiaa. We set a date to meet during my next trip with a group. But when we arrive the door stays closed. Eventually I meet Aicha in the Oases Tulip Hotel in Agadir.'

Discoverings about Iligh

The Graphic Story about 'Maison d'Iligh' and its history got as provisonal title: The Tears of Iligh. Bert started on the research more or less right away. Earlier she had discovered that two names kept popping up: the Dutch 17th century admiral Michiel Adriaanzoon De Ruyter and the French Moroccan social-geologist Paul Pascon. Paul Pascon had written extensively about Maison d'Iligh. But the book wasn't in print nor was it second hand available. Aicha Aboudmiaa told Bert in Agadir that among the participants of the research project of Paul Pascon was a Dutchman, but she had forgotten his name. Then Bert finds in a footnote somewhere on the Internet that the co-writer of Pascon's book on Iligh H. Van der Wüsten was. With a name like that he must be the Dutchman. She contacts him. He is pleasantly surprised and send her immediately a copy of 'La Maison d'Iligh'. For a learned non-fiction book it was riveting reading. Herman van der Wüsten also gives Bert the name of another Dutchman who was part of the group that helped Paul Pascon: Paolo De Mas. De Mas was also co-author of a history book about Morocco. Bert also contacted him, but he didn't seem to have reacted to her email. In July 2017 Bert and I contacted Aicha. Yes, her father would be glad to see us. We booked our next trip to Iligh for September 26 to October 6.

My first visit to Iligh

In October 2016 Bert and I called on Maison d’Iligh. Although contact was made beforehand again nobody was there and again we finally met up with Aisha in Agadir. Bert asked her for proof of the chest. Aisha promised a photograph. Then the problem was revealed: her father had contacted the ministry for culture in Rabat, but they only want to make the documents and books safe for the future if they can stay in the national library. That was a bit too much to ask of the last descendant of the illustrious House of Iligh. Moulay Imam Aboudmiaah wants his daughter to put Maison d’Iligh on the international stage. It is his only hope to safeguard the place, treasures and history from oblivion. But Aisha has a busy job and it is not an easy task to honor the wishes of her father and save Iligh. After looking at the sketches I made in Iligh and the Zaouia she asked me to come back and made a book of drawings of Iligh. Preferably soon. However there are no funds. In the plane going back to The Netherlands Bert and I decided that a booklet with drawings of Iligh wouldn’t do. Bert had already researched a bit the history of the small kingdom at the edge of the Sahara  that dates back to the seventeenth century and its Sufi saint founder. She had also discovered the interesting connection Michiel de Ruyter had with the place and a tentative link to the Sephardic community in Holland. It wasn’t difficult to come to the conclusion that only a graphic novel about Iligh and its history would do. 

First sight of Iligh

Bert Hogervorst and I are making a Graphic Story about an small former chiefdom in the south of Morocco. This is how we got into it: Bert visited the stronghold of Iligh on the edge of the Sahara desert for the first time in March 2015. She owns a company for private travel called Flying Hippo and was there with a small group. Bert was charmed by the architecture of the old buildings of 'Maison d'Iligh'. They looked more Sub-Saharan and less traditional Moroccan. There was a sign that said: Museum. She knocked on the nearest door. Nobody was at home. A few days later in Agadir she met up with Aisha Aboudmiaah the daughter of the owner of Maison d’Iligh. Aisha told Bert about a chest containing 1500 documents in Arabic and Hebrew in addition to a library of 3000 old books. All of which are in grave danger of  falling apart with age and neglect. At her return in Amsterdam Bert contacted the Jewish Historical Museum. They had organised in 2009 an important photo exhibit  about Jewish life in Southren Morocco. She also contacted the director of the Musée du Judaisme Marocain in Casablanca: Zhor Rehilhil. But Zhor reacted doubtful: is there proof the chest really exists? In October Bert and I visited her. It was an interesting and informative meeting, but we didn’t succeed then to bring her in contact with Aisha.